Di negara kepulauan terbesar sejagad raya yang menaungi 16.000 pulau dan hanya memiliki 297 bandara ini, kapal Pelni adalah transportasi reguler yang paling bisa diandalkan untuk menghubungkan pulau-pulau yang tercerai-berai, terlebih di bagian timur Indonesia. Pelni tak ubahnya miniatur Indonesia: centang-perenang sekaligus kaya warna. Tidak perlu bicara bagaimana kenyamanan dalam dek-dek kapal pesiar, tapi banyak orang tak punya pilihan.
Namun, menaiki maskapai lautan peninggalan kolonial ini menawarkan cerita yang beragam. KM Dobonsolo, KM Labobar, KM Nggapulu, KM Tidar kapal berbobot 14.500 ton dengan kapasitas 1.900 penumpang yang mengarungi jarak lebih dari 2000 kilometer, menghubungkan barat, tengah, hingga ke timur Indonesia. Fatris MF mencoba mengikuti beberapa pelayaran kapal milik PT Pelni ini.
PENGHUBUNG | Indonesia adalah negara kepulauan terbesar di dunia. Dengan 16.000 pulau yang terpencar,dan dipisahkan oleh lautan, kapal-kapal milik PT Pelni seperti KM Dobonsolo, KM Labobar, KM Nggapulu, KM Tidar adalah penghubung bagi rakyat negeri ini yang ingin bepergian.
MINIATUR | Berlayar dari bagian barat, kapal-kapal itu adalah sarana transportasi bagi mereka yang ingin melakukan perjalanan menuju wilayah tengah dan timur negeri ini. KM Tidar adalah salah satunya. Kapal berbobot 14.500 itu menjadi armada pengangkut bersama KM Dobonsolo, KM Labobar, dan KM Nggapulu yang menghubungkan pulau-pulau di Indonesia.
PELAYARAN PANJANG | Kebanyakan perjalanan menggunakan kapal memakan waktu amat panjang. Karenanya, hidup di atas kapal dengan frekuensi pelayaran yang panjang tidaklah banyak memberikan pilihan. Walau bagaimanapun, inilah satu-satunya transportasi kaum papa, kaum melarat di Nusantara yang tidak memiliki banyak pilihan transportasi
HANYA LAUT | Hidup di kapal juga punya rutinitas tersendiri bagi keluarga yang menumpang kapal ini; bangun pagi, sarapan, lalu berwisata melihat laut. Begitu pula saat siang, para penumpang akan antri makan, lalu berwisata melihat laut kembali.
HIBURAN | Adakalanya rasa bosan datang, namun sekali lagi mereka tak memiliki pilihan, akhirnya menatap horison adalah sebuah hiburan yang mereka santap seharian. Bioskop sebagai sebuah hiburan memang telah disediakan, namun sayang, film yang diputar hanyalah film dewasa yang menawarkan birahi nan menggiurkan.
PASAR | Di dek-dek ekonomi yang pengap dan berantakan, aroma tubuh manusia dan makanan bercampur aduk dengan aroma toilet yang tak mengasyikkan. Di atas kapal dalam sebuah perjalanan panjang ribuan penumpang pasrah dan berserah diri menanti tiba ditujuan. Sementara di dek-dek kapal yang bertingkat-tingkat sebuah pasar terbentuk. Puluhan pedagang asongan sibuk menjual kopi panas, mie kemasani hingga sebungkus nasi.
PULAU KECIL | Kapal-kapal penumpang milik Pelni yang mengambil rute-rute jauh ibarat pulau kecil yang terus bergerak. Berlayar mengarungi lautan, kapal-kapal itu menjadi sosok pahlawan bagi mereka yang tinggal di daerah kepulauan. Tak cuma mengangkut manusia saja, kapal-kapal besar itu juga mengangkut beragam kebutuhan yang dipasok dari Pulau Jawa ke berbagai pulau yang kebanyakan masih terdengar asing dan terlupakan dari peta Nusantara.
MURAH | Tiket dipatok jauh lebih murah dari pada pesawat, itu yang membuat masyarakat menjatuhkan pilihan pada sarana transportasi ini. Meski tak menjanjikan kenyamanan, banyak penumpang mengakui inilah perjalanan yang mengasyikkan walau terkadang memabukkan jika musim badai telah datang.
JATAH | Dalam sehari tiap penumpang akan mengantri dua hingga tiga kali sehari untuk mengambil jatah makan. Jangan bertanya menu dan rasa yang didapat di dek ekonomi kala berlayar dengan kapal Pelni. Nasi putih dengan sepotong ikan kecil adalah obat lapar yang paling berharga dalam pelayaran seminggu lebih.
DARATAN | Ketika haluan kapal mulai menyentuh daratan, perjalanan panjang seolah terlupakan, meski kala berjalan pijakan masih terasa bergoyang. Bagi para penumpang, tanah seolah obat dari kebahagiaan setelah menempuh perjalanan panjang. Hingga saat ini, banyak pulau di Indonesia masih bertumpu pada pelayaran kapal-kapal Pelni. Seperti di Banda Naira yang berada dikelilingi Laut Banda, masyarakatnya kerap menunggu kedatangan kapal-kapal Pelni.
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